Over The Top Tour Day 2 - Milford to Middletown

 It was a nice day of riding through scenic farm land and marshes to Middletown. We are staying at a fancy Holiday Inn Express, because Jim stays at these all the time for his job and he gets loyalty points.

Middletown is a city I never knew existed until we started planning the route for this trip. It's actually pretty big and new, with a nice historic core. And there are lots of fancy stores. So there are obviously people with lots of money living here. I just can't figure out why. But it means we have nice lodging options with lots of food nearby, but we have to ride through five miles of Strip Mall Hell and heavy traffic.

We had dinner next door at the Crooked Hammock Brewery, which is this brightly colored places giving off a day care vibe.

Crooked Hammock is a small, growing chain in beach towns. It's very corporate. Nobody there knows why Middletown exists.

Most of the day was fabulous rural countryside, with lots of farms and marshes when we were near the Delaware Bay. The terrain is totally flat.

We started out at this nice old school diner next to our Rodeway Inn. 

There are some tiny towns scattered among the farms. This is the Town Hall in Magnolia, population 235.

We spent most of the day riding up State Route 9, which is the easternmost north-south road in Delaware. But to get there we had to cross the St. Jones River south of Dover. The only option is State Route 1, which is a limited access freeway. Is that legal? Hard telling. Strava won't plan a route over it, but there are no signs saying NO BIKES, and the Strava Global Heatmap shows some people ride it. It was definitely not fun.

After that, we skirted the south side of Dover Air Force Base, past the Air Mobility Command Museum.

Dover AFB is where giant cargo planes are based. It's also where dead soldiers are shipped back to the USA.

The next location of note was Leipsic. I've been to Leipsic before. Back around 1990, I was driving around Delaware watching birds one morning, and I drove over that low bridge in the picture below. I pulled over and stopped where that pickup truck is parked. A policeman, who was parked across the street, walked over and handed me a ticket for going 45 in a 25 zone. 

"How am I doing 45 in a 25 zone when I AM PARKED?" I asked, totally outraged. 

"I have you on radar going 45."

This is a speed trap. When you go over the bridge, the speed limit is 40, but it lowers to 25 right before town. The cop records your speed going over the bridge, and then says you were in the 25 zone.

I have hated Delaware "The Shitty Little State" generally and Leipsic in particular ever since.

Leipsic, however, has the only restaurant for lunch on our route for 15 miles in any direction.

Unfortunately, this only lunch option is called "Sambo's Tavern".

Jim says you can only get away with that when you are far from any civilization. 

Despite the name, it's a nice place, and it has a great view out the back window.

They also sell T-Shirts, which are very nice. They the Sambo's logo which features a big black Labrador Retriever, who presumably is "Sambo".

Jim: "Those are nice shirts, but I don't want to get one because I'd get beat up."

me: "Saying the dog is named "Sambo" probably won't help."

Jim: "Probably not."

I had tasty fried oysters.

We had tailwinds and crosswinds most of the day, but the last part was into a headwind. Here is a picture of Jim I took while waiting for him to catchup. 

I love recumbents.

Here's the Strava track.

https://www.strava.com/activities/18376869641

Over The Top Tour Day 1 - Rehoboth Beach to Milford

 We are at Milford, Delaware, in the relatively decent Rodeway Inn. 

The room is spacious and recently updated, except for.the mold in the bathtub. It doesn't smell too much like cigarette smoke. There is coffee in the lobby. There are only 5 cars in the parking lot at 7:00 am.

But I saw a new one in sketchy motel behavior. When I checked in, the guy at the desk shuffled through a stack of room cards until he found one with my room number. He gave me the old one instead of burning me.a new one. This means that a previous guest in this room who kept their room card could come back any time and use it to enter the room.

Today was a short day and a long day. It was only 39 miles, but it took nearly 6 hours. This was because we had to ride into a strong headwind all day. No big deal for me on the recumbent, which offers very little wind resistance, but Jim is riding an upright touring bike, which has him in an upright position, and he is really held back by the wind. So I'm letting him set the pace, casually coasting along, barely working, heart rate under 90, while he is working very very hard. Recumbents are great.

The only interesting sight today was at the turn onto Holly Tree Road.

There is a holly tree on the corner. Go figure.

The scenery is farm fields rapidly being turned into housing developments. Which are still near plenty of chicken houses. I forsee conflict.

Lunch was gas station chicken at the Quick Stop in Milton. It was amazing. I swear you can't go wrong with gas station chicken on the Eastern Shore. Milton is the home of the Dogfish Head Brewery, which we did not visit, even though Dogfish is an old favorite.

Dinner was across the street at the Surf and Turf Lounge, in the Wal-Mart parking lot. It was really good, nice Bloody Marys to replenish electrolytes (not that I sweated today) and tasty steak.

Here is the Strava track: https://www.strava.com/activities/18365034548

Over The Top Tour Day 0 - Home to Rehoboth Beach

 My friend Jim and I are doing a quick bike tour. We are riding home from Rehoboth Beach by going over the top of the Chesapeake Bay.

Since Jim was already at Rehoboth, I had to get here. So I rode my bike. 107 miles. It was great. Flat easy cruising, with a tailwind much of the way. I left at 8:00 and got in before 6.

Here I am at my motel, still feeling fresh and strong.

This motel is in a great location, a block of the main drag, and it has a room available and no two-day minimum stay. It's not fancy *and* not cheap. 

No, it does not have coffee, which is why I had to walk over to Dunkin Donuts first thing in the morning.

There are lots of interesting local cafes, but none of them are open at 7:00 am. So it's Dunkin. 

I was on a mission on the ride, so I didn't take any pictures. 

Lunch was some Royal Fried in Queen Anne, which hit the spot.

The big first-time highlight experience was taking Lyft to get across the Bay Bridge. I've used Lyft before to get places with a bike, you order an XXL vehicle, which is typically a Toyota Sienna minivan. Bikes fit in no problem, you fold down the second and third row seats on one side. Lyft XXL drivers are used to this. 

I wasn't sure if you can use Lyft to get across the Bay Bridge, so a few days before, I did a test reservation, it's no problem, and they said it would cost $64. Which is mighty expensive, but OK.

So when I got to the end of the Bay Bridge for real, I ordered up a Lyft XXL. It was $140. HOLY CRAP. It's a seven mile ride. I did this anyway. 

I've always used Lyft instead of Uber, because I have never been able to get payments to work with Uber. It's time to make Uber an option. Demand pricing is evil.

Here are the Strava tracks.

Home to the Bay Bridge: https://www.strava.com/activities/18347023646

Bay Bridge to Rehoboth Beach: https://www.strava.com/activities/18351751646

California Cushion Day and Recap

 Today is a cushion day, where I have nothing to do except pack the bike in a box to fly home tomorrow.

This used to be stressful and complicated before the days of Lyft and Uber. You'd have to get a cab to the airport, hope the cab shows up, and hope the bike box will fit in the cab. After Jim and I actually missed a flight because of cab chaos, Jim would always rent a minivan. on the day before we would fly out. Then we would drive to the bike shop to get boxes, and then drive to the airport with the bikes, which we would unload and I would watch them while Jim would return the rental minivan.

Today I just rode 3 1/2 miles to the bike shop on a beautiful morning, with a quick stop at Home Depot for packing tape.

One I have the bike box, I called Lyft for an XXL minivan, which arrived promptly and returned me, bike, and box to the hostel with no stress or fuss.

I had all afternoon to ride down to the beach at Ocean Beach.

Where I stuffed myself with seafood and tropical cocktails. Round 1 was cerviche and a Prickly Pear Mojito.

Round 2 was some calamari and a painkiller.

Then I rode back to the hotel and had a nice nap on the hammock.

In the late afternoon, I put the bike in the box. So easy.

Once the bike was all boxed up, I went over the the Zoomer girl working the registration desk.
me (deadpan): "My bike is packed, it's ready to go."
me: "It's standing here outside the door."
Girl: <blank look>
me: "Is that a good place for me leave it overnight?"
Girl: < checks security cameras> "yes"

My Lyft XXL minivan will be here at 8:00 AM tomorrow to take me 4 miles to the airport. My flight leaves at 11:30. The TSA lines are reported to be 30-45 minutes mid day, when the airport is not very busy.

The final numbers on this trip are about 850 miles of riding over 17 days, with 2 days off. About 150 of those miles were on the shoulders of interstates!

Lodging and eating out is very expensive here. I wound up spending about $150/day on the average, and that is with being very economical on the lodging by camping and staying in hostels (or AirBnB rooms in a shared house that function like a hostel). But this is worth it. Southern California is a very unique and memorable place to go on a  bike tour.

The lodging breakdown:
6 nights budget motels
3 nights camping
4 nights AirBnB (all bedrooms in a shared house)
5 nights hostels (4 of 5 private rooms due to bike security and shame about my snoring)

Calfornia Day 17 - Doheny State Beach to San Diego

 The Great 2026 California Tour is done. I am at the Point Loma Hostel in San Diego.

I stayed here in 2003 when I finished a coast to coast tour too. The girl at the registration desk doesn't remember me. Probably because she wasn't born yet.

It's always sad to come to the end of a bike tour. But bike touring is good for you and I am always much happier after touring than before touring.

I grow tired of living Nixon's mess.

Lost on the freeway again.

This time it's I-5. You have to do about 7 miles of I-5 through Camp Pendleton regardless, but I got to do twice that much because of these guys.

This is an Ironman event. They closed about 50 miles of the road I planned to ride on, which put me on the interstate instead. I did learn, though, that when the interstate is gridlocked and traffic is only moving at 20 mph, riding on the shoulder is actually rather pleasant. But that was only about half of what I had to road.

There was also the challenge of getting to the interstate from where the road was blocked.

This dirt path was about a mile long, all downhill, and very popular with surfers going to the beach.

You see these bikes with surfboard carriers all over.

I had a nice rest break at a rest area, where I ate an apple. 

There was only a couple miles of shoulder after this, with gridlocked traffic, so it wasn't so bad, but I am so glad to be done with riding on the shoulder.

Unfortunately, riding along the beach pretty much didn't happen today. It was a lot of ups and downs, and it turned out to be very strenuous. 

Despite the Ironman event, there were a *lot* of people out riding bikes today. Apparently a thing people in San Diego like to do is take Amtrak up the coast first thing in the morning and then ride back. I chatted with several people doing this. 

I didn't see any other bike tourists, but I met a lot of people who had done touring in the past, who were happy to talk to me about touring and to share their past experiences. I think it is the off season for touring, which is weird because the weather is perfect.

I had these pizza slices for lunch in Encinitas, which was at the halfway point. They got the job done.

The killer was Torrey PInes, which is 15 miles from the end. This is a 500 foot hill with a golf course on top. You have to go over the top, there is no alternative.

Here's a view looking back at Torrey Pines from La Jolla, which is full of short steep climbs itself.

Today was actually pretty tough. It was 67 miles and 2405 feet of climb. I'm pretty comfortable when the days are under 60 miles and 2000 feet of climb.  I'm feeling it now.

The hostel is a low-key residential neighborhood. It is not near any big party zones with lots of bars, like say Hermosa Beach. But it does have a surprising number of good-looking restaurants nearby, which apparently focus on serving the people who live in the neighborhood. 

I checked out the Thai place, which was terrific, although it was pretty authentically spicy compared to the stuff I"m used to.

I really like it when I get to experience places as the typical residents experience them.

Here's the Strava track: https://www.strava.com/activities/17894366277

California Day 16 - Hermosa Beach to Doheny State Beach

 HE SHOOTS HE SCORES!

Do I look like a guy who needs a hiker biker campsite or what?

Despite reading many reports that Doheny State Beach no longer has hiker biker sites, I decided to give it a shot anyway. The alternative is to ride seven more miles and pay $180 for a two star dive motel room in San Clemente.

The guy at the campground registration said they did away with the hiker biker site years ago but they will try to accommodate hikers and bikers who show up if they can and "if they look legitimate". (Apparently the old hiker biker site was being abused by the local homeless population, who would monopolize it and steal from the regular campers.) He asked me where I stayed last night and how far I'd ridden (60 miles). I told him a story about how I still had shower tokens from Leo Carrillo State Park, because when I tried to give them back, they told me to keep them because they are good at any California State campground. So I figured they would have a hiker biker site because otherwise the guys at Leo Carrillo would have taken the tokens back, right? I am so legitimate.

$16. Such a deal. It's literally on the beach. 

Here is my happy tent all set up.

See that white building though the trees? That's the Hilton Garden Inn. Rooms start at $450/night. HAHAHAHAHA

Today was a pretty great day of riding. The day started by going inland through Torrance and Carson to get to Long Beach. Otherwise there is a giant hill and a container terminal. 

This is Carson Street between Torrance and Carson. I suspect this is what most of Los Angeles looks like if you are not near the ocean.

Between Carson and Long Beach it's very industrial. Long Beach is a major container terminal, with rail service. 

Near Long Beach, I rode along one of these LA "rivers" which are basically concrete drainage channels. You see them in car chases in movies all the time. Now I've seen one in real life.

At the end of this you get to a bogus "Festival Marketplace" deal like the Baltimore Inner Harbor, complete with Bubba Gump and Hooters. It's so generic and so tired. 

However the one in Long Beach also has the Queen Mary!

Apparently it's a hotel! You can rent a room! And also a history museum. This actually sounds kind of cool.

This was the first third of the day. 

The next third was riding along bike paths along the beach. After Long Beach, I stopped for a burger at a Small Cafe on Naples Island. It was yummy.

Here's an example in Huntington Beach.

Huntington Beach is a dog beach! All the dogs are running around playing! It was great! Non of the other beaches allow dogs to run around and have fun, if they allow dogs at all.

The final third of the day was a bit inland from the beach, and it had a lot of ups and downs. Here is what it looks like entering Dana Point. No beach. Hills. 



The good news was there is a killer old school Mexican restaurant right by the campground.

It's across the street from Reptropolis. Which I gather is a reptile store.

That's a Prickly Pear Margarita there.

Which was followed by a spicy Watermelon margarita with my awesomely gooey enchaladas.

So I am now totally happy. Electrolytes are replenished, I'm stuffed with tasty food, and I have a super comfy campsite. Which only cost $16. 

Perfect.

Here's the Strava track: https://www.strava.com/activities/17882390932

 

California Day 15 - Leo Carrillo State Park to Hermosa Beach

 It was a short day today. The best option to stay in Los Angeles, balancing fun and economy, looks like the Hermosa Beach Hostel. Which is only 40 miles down the road, but that leaves two 60 miles days to wrap up the trip and that's fine. Besides, I need to do laundry.

The first half of the day was riding through 21 Miles of Scenic Beauty, as the sign describes Malibu. Here is a picture of the misty Malibu morning.

Here is a Malibu in Malibu!

I spent all morning looking to take a picture of a Malibu in Malibu. I rode through about 20 of the 21 scenic miles before I spotted one.

Here are other cars that are at least as likely to be seen in Malibu as a Malibu, based on my personal observation:
* Rolls Royce
* Aston Martin
* VW iD Buzz
* VW Microbus
* Lucid Air

Rivians and Cybertrucks are common. Porsches are abundant.

I suspect the Malibu Malibu belonged to the landscaper working on the yard across the street.

The southern part of the Pacific Coast Highway has mile after mile of vacant waterfront lots where the homes had been demolished. This was quite a puzzler. That's a lot of valuable home sites where there were obviously lots of houses, which are gone. Later on, the Internet explained to me that all burned down in the Pacific Palisades wildfire.

Here is a picture of a tree.

And here is a view looking back up the road from the start of Santa Monica.

The hostel doesn't have guest laundry, so Google Maps says the closest laundromat to the route is on Lincoln Ave. in Santa Monica. Lincoln Ave. is a major urban thoroughfare. So I left the scenic bike paths and went into the big city. 

It was a nice laundromat. Clean and efficient. Washing and drying a load was less than $5.

I got a spicy Italian sandwich and a Mexican Coke at the LoKal sandwich shop a few blocks down. It was excellent.

And the laundry side trip didn't actually add much mileage, because the route has to go around Marina Del Rey anyway. 

It was 10 miles of riding along the beach from Marina Del Rey to hostel.

Which is the second and third floor of this building on the main drag of Hermosa Beach.

I had to lug my bike and gear up a long flight of stairs.

Hermosa Beach is a big hotspot.

I had dinner at Hennessey's Irish Tavern, the green building in front on the right. The hostel is the white building behind it. There are so many walkable options here!

Electrolytes are replenished.

And I had a huge, hearty bowl of Shepherds' Pie. I am all fueled up for tomorrow.

Tomorrow's lodging is not locked down yet. This may become an adventure. I want to camp, but there are reports on The Internet that the state park halfway between here and San Diego may not actually have a hiker biker campsite as advertised. We shall see. Motel rooms are very expensive.

Here is the Strava track for today: https://www.strava.com/activities/17870485637